If your 1997 Ford F-250 7.3L Diesel is 4WD, then a cooler should not interfere with the installation of the Curt Front Mount Hitch, # 31310. This hitch installs on the frame brackets that support the bumper. It may be possible that a previous owner installed an aftermarket cooler. It is common to find certain aftermarket coolers attached to frame rails because they provide a concealed and secure mounting point.
I spoke with my contact at Curt and he assured me that there will be no factory... view full answer...
It sounds like you spliced in a second 7-Way connector like part # 20023 to the current 7-Way wiring on your 1997 Ford F-350 for an in-bed camper and the lights on the camper aren't working. Is the original 7-Way testing correctly? If it is but the in-bed 7-Way isn't testing correctly then you have isolated the issue to the wiring harness that you installed. If neither are working correctly then I would try testing the wiring before the splice with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to... view full answer...
Thank you for providing a detailed description of your lighting issue and of the troubleshooting steps you have taken so far.
Diodes should not cause a voltage drop if they are operating properly. You can test whether the diodes are the problem by apply a voltmeter to the upstream and downstream wiring with the MH engine running. If you detect close to 13 volts going into the diodes but substantially less on the output side then the diodes may be defective. There could also potentially... view full answer...
The most common reason why trailer running lights won't work is a bad ground. The ground problem could be on the truck's wiring harness, the trailer's wiring harness or both. The good news is that it is easy to check your grounds.
Trace the white ground wires on your truck and trailer harnesses to the spots where these attach to the frames. The best fix is usually to remove those ring terminals and sand off those grounding points to expose clean bare metal. An application of dielectric... view full answer...
If you're certain that your trailer brakes are adjusted properly, then you likely have a wiring issue such as a short somewhere.
What you can do is, start by checking the trailer wiring connector on the truck for corrosion. Corrosion can often the culprit of situations such as these.
If there is corrosion on your connector, then clean the connector and check again to see if the problem persists.
Next, if that did not solve your issue, then what you can do is check the wiring on the... view full answer...
In 7-way wiring the trailer brake circuit's contact/pin is next to the contact for the right turn/stop circuit. What can happen is that corrosion can build up on or inside either the truck socket or the trailer plug and this corrosive build-up can actually cause two adjacent circuits to become bridged together. If this happened between the right turn/stop circuit and the brake circuit applying your flashers would send a 12V signal to the brake circuit.
Sometimes this corrosion (or trapped... view full answer...
It sounds like you are troubleshooting a trailer brake controller installation in your Ford based RV.
All trailer brake controllers share the same 4-wire hookup. The BLACK wire takes in 12V operating power from the vehicle battery; the WHITE wire is for battery ground; the RED wire takes in the triggering signal from the cold side of the brake light switch; and the BLUE wire carries the controller output to the trailer connector.
If your trailer brakes are engaging when you turn the RV... view full answer...
There are a few things you can do, to diagnose the problem. Start by disconnecting the trailer from your vehicle, then use a circuit tester # PTW2979 to test the connectors on the vehicle. Go through the functions with your tester and make sure everything is working. Inspect the connectors and connections, make sure there is not any rust or corrosion built up in these areas.
If any of the pins show a constant 12 volts, and the corresponding pin on the trailer side goes to the brakes, that... view full answer...
I have attached a helpful article that explains 4 methods for testing your electric brake magnets. You will need a multimeter like part # PT89ZR to check the amperage when testing the magnets.
The article explains how to test the magnets while the trailer is connected to the vehicle and also explains how to do bench testing to see if the magnets are working properly or need to be replaced. view full answer...
The first thing that I would do is to check and make sure that the 7 way on both your 1997 Ford F250 and the trailer are free of dirt, moisture, and corrosion.
If both look good, I recommend checking the ground connection on your truck. A weak ground will only support a limited current draw. You will want to check to make sure that the ground wire on your truck is secured tightly to a clean metal surface without any paint or corrosion.
I have also attached a troubleshooting guide for... view full answer...
Since you've already tested the trailer connector on your truck and the trailer also has issues when connected to another tow vehicle it sounds like the problem is likely with the trailer's wiring.
Check the trailer's wiring for any damaged points. You'll also want to make sure the trailer connector is clean, both on the pins and the back where the wiring is connected to it. The issue could be that the connector is wired incorrectly. I've attached a diagram showing the standard wiring.... view full answer...
If using a lubricant does not help to release the hitch pin, you might have to loosen the bolts on the center section and remove it from the vehicle to get better access. Check the track the hitch pin moves on for any signs of dirt or corrosion. If there is, you can try cleaning the parts with a wire brush.
If you still can't get the turnover ball removed, you can switch out the center plate with a new one, such as # BWGNRC800. I would recommend this approach as there's no guarantee that... view full answer...
We have never seen an 1/2" diameter hitch pin on a 2-1/2" receiver. They all have 5/8" standard. We only see the 1/2" pins on the small 1-1/4" receivers. I would measure your hitch pin carefully. Is it possible that everything is 5/8" but just has a loose fit? Hitch parts do not have tight tolerances and tend to wiggle and rattle a little. Most likely your setup is just fine.If the rattling becomes annoying you can always add a Trailer Hitch Anti-Rattle Kit for 1-1/4" Trailer Hitches,... view full answer...
If your Kelsey brake controller is for electric brakes, like the Hayes Energize III+ # HA81742B, then you'll be looking for the red wire to only show power when your brake pedal is pressed. If you're seeing constant power on the input side of the red wire then that would be an issue and why you're seeing constant power on the blue wire.
You'll want to either find the cause of your red wire being constantly hot, and/or find a different source that only gets power when you press the brake... view full answer...
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